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13 Aug 2017

Some nice reminder to myself before I buy my next ideal watch:

  1. Round glass
  2. Stainless steel case
  3. Screw down case back
  4. At least 100M water resistance
  5. Sapphire crystal
  6. Replaceable leather strap
  7. Great movement
  8. Never buy a gold plated watch

These are just guidelines. I don’t necessarily need to have all of these characteristics met.

When you divide the circumference (in millimeters) of your wrist by the diameter (in millimeters) of a watch case without the crown, the value must be between 4 and 5.

If the value is below 4, it means the watch is too big for you.

If the value is above 5, it means the watch is too small for you.

These are only guidelines as well. At the end of the day it’s still all up to your own personal preference.

There are two made in Japan watches that I would like to buy in the future. The first one (Seiko Dolce SACM171) has a diameter of 33.5 mm (without the crown).

Seiko Dolce SACM171

The second one (Grand Seiko SBGX263) has a diameter of 37 mm (without the crown). The circumference of my wrist is 165.1 mm (6.5 inches).

Grand Seiko SBGX263

165.1 mm ÷ 33.5 mm = 4.93

165.1 mm ÷ 37 mm = 4.46

Both values are between 4 and 5 so I’m good.

The two watches I have with me right now have a diameter of 40.5 mm (without the crown).

165.1 mm ÷ 40.5 mm = 4.08

Both are between 4 and 5 as well. But I’m not using them. I’m gonna sell or donate them in the future.

The Seiko Dolce SACM171 only has a snap down case back and a 30M water resistance. It’s okay. I still really like it. It has a round glass, a stainless steel case coated with Seiko’s DiaShield case coating, a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, a replaceable leather strap, and a high accuracy quartz (HAQ) movement (caliber 8J41). It only weighs 26 grams.

The Grand Seiko SBGX263 has a stainless steel bracelet, not a leather strap. That’s okay. I’ll just replace it with a genuine Grand Seiko leather strap and a genuine Grand Seiko buckle or clasp. This watch has a round glass, a stainless steel case with Zaratsu polishing, a screw down case back, a 100M water resistance, a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, and an HAQ movement (caliber 9F62). This watch neither has a perpetual calendar nor an independent hour-hand adjustment function. It weighs 134 grams (with the original stainless steel bracelet).

The Citizen Chronomaster AB9000-01A (also made in Japan) has a round glass, a stainless steel case coated with Citizen’s Duratect PTIC case coating, a screw down case back, a 100M water resistance, a sapphire crystal with Citizen’s 99% Clarity coating, a replaceable leather strap, a high precision quartz movement (caliber A660), a perpetual calendar until 28 Feb 2100, an independent hour-hand adjustment function, an accuracy of ±5 seconds per year, a battery life of approximately 5 years on a new battery, and a diameter of 38 mm (without the crown). It weighs 56 grams.

I just prefer Seiko Dolces, Grand Seikos, and Seiko Credors.

The Citizen Chronomaster AB9000-01A

The good thing with the 8J41 and the 9F62 is that their accuracy are both rated at ±10 seconds per year. That’s right. Not per day. Not per month. But per year.

A modern mechanical watch has a typical accuracy of about ±1825 seconds per year. A modern mechanical watch that’s chronometer certified has a typical accuracy of about ±1095 seconds per year. A modern quartz watch has a typical accuracy of about ±365 seconds per year.

A new battery for each of these calibers (the 8J41 and the 9F62) will last for approximately 3 years.

A new Seiko Dolce SACM171 costs from 356 USD to 478 USD depending on the seller. Free shipping worldwide. Fees and taxes at your country’s customs are not yet included.

A new Grand Seiko SBGX263 costs around 2,200 USD. Free shipping worldwide. Fees and taxes at your country’s customs are not yet included.

A new Citizen Chronomaster AB9000-01A costs around 2,200 USD. Free shipping worldwide. Fees and taxes at your country’s customs are not yet included.

When I was a kid I had Casios, Swatches, and Seikos. I started with quartz watches then I fell in love with mechanical watches. And now high accuracy quartz watches for good.

The quartz movement might feel dead, and the mechanical movement might feel more alive. More connection. More soul. I just hate having to deal with my watch every so often. I don’t wanna buy a watch winder. Even if I have the best watch winder in the world, I still won’t use it. I will just get rid of it.

I just want a very reliable and accurate watch that I can wear when I need to without having to deal with it every week/month, and without having to deal with a watch winder. I found the answer on the Seiko Dolce SACM171 and the Grand Seiko SBGX263 and any future iterations of these watches.

It’s okay that I have to bring my watch to an authorized service center every three years to have the battery and the gasket replaced with new ones, and to have my watch serviced by highly skilled technicians.

Most people when they see me wearing a high accuracy quartz watch might judge me for not wearing a mechanical watch with its sweeping second hand moving in a smooth motion made by Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, Breguet, Richard Mille, Blancpain, Piaget, Chopard, Panerai, IWC, Rolex, Omega, Bell & Ross, Cartier, Ulysse Nardin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breitling, Bremont, TAG Heuer, Louis Moinet, Seiko, Orient, Citizen, and so on.

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